Acid/ Alk Part 4

Assembling The Unit :

With all the materials cut, drilled and machined to the above specifications, you should be ready to assemble all the parts into their correct position. Do not fix the bottom end cap at this time. We need to be able to work from both the top and bottom end of the cylinder while we place the baffle guides into position.(see figure 8) We will be putting the end cap into position and removing it numerous times as we finish the final assembly.

Assembly:

1. Firstly, put the bottom end cap into position do not fix it. Assert that the end cap is flush with the bottom of the cylinder/container. Sit the cylinder/container in the normal up right position on the bench top.

2. Place the now cut to size chamois between the two baffle plates. Slide the baffle plates with the chamois down into the container while positioning the baffle plates firmly into the router groove in the bottom of the end cap. Tap the baffle plates with your hand to make sure that they are firmly into the groove of the end cap. If the plates appear tight, then file the outer bottom edge of the baffle plates to a taper so they slide in easier. You may now cut two or four planks of thin wood 71mm wide by 200-400 mm long. Jamb these pieces of wood either side of the baffle plates to hold the entire plates straight and centre most in the cylinder/container as we fix the baffle guides.

3. Put two of the 10mm x 20mm x 420mm long baffle guides into the container: one either side of the baffle plates. Using your hand as a clamp hold them firmly an assert that the guides are to the outer most diameter hard against the inside of the cylinder curve. Be sure that the planed curve on the guide is the correct way out. Using a 1.5mm drill bit as a pilot hole drill outside the cylinder an in to the baffle guide. Estimate the drill hole at the centre position at around the general top of these two guides: about 30mm down. The top of baffle guides should rest natural about 20mm down from the top of the cylinder/container. So you will need to drill down about 25-30mm so you don't miss the top of the baffle guide. Screw a 2.5mm(4g) x 16mm screw into the hole fixing the top end of these first two baffle guides. (see figure 8)

4. Now using a long stick of wood remove the bottom end cap away from the cylinder. Leave the baffles in position. Once again holding the bottom end of baffle guides against the baffles and hard against the outer cylinder, drill a pilot hole in the outer cylinder through to the centre of baffle guides; fix a screw to hold them into position. These two holes should be up 25-30 mm from the bottom of the cylinder/container so you don't miss the end of the baffle guides. Place the bottom end cap back into position. Again check that the baffle plates are hard down into the end cap groove, and that the end cap is flush with the cylinder/container bottom. Using a pencil and a ruler, rule two parallel lines from top to bottom along the outer side of the cylinder in the dead centre of the 4 screw heads. Asserting that the baffle guides are straight, an are in position, drill two pilot holes at the dead centre of the cylinder right on the two pencil lines. Insert two more screws into these holes. Measure an divide either side of these centre screws to find the middle of the top an current centre, and the middle of the bottom and current centre. Drill pilot holes and screw these last four screws into position. You should have 2 lines of 5 screws holding each of the two baffle guides into position. (see figure 8) Repeat step 4 above until all baffle guides are fixed into position.

5. Once you have all baffle guides fixed into position use a marker pen or texture to number the baffle guides with a corresponding number on the cylinder wall. Now undo all the screws and remove the baffle guides (one at a time only) away from the cylinder/container. We are now going to place a thin layer of silicon sealant on the fixing side of all four guides and refit them back into their original position inside the cylinder/container. Note the number for the correct way around when refitting the guides.

6. Once all the baffle guides are sealed with silicon and fixed into position, you may remove the bottom end cap and place a bead of silicon around the outer parameter of the end cap. Being careful, fit the end cap back into the cylinder container. Be sure that the end cap is home flush and that the baffle plates once again align with the groove in the end cap. Hit the baffle plates down firmly to check they are firmly into the groove of the end cap. If all is home and flush, looking inside from the top down toward the bottom, scribe a pencil mark either side on the outer cylinder at the very bottom of the cylinder where the end cap groove is. We do not wish to screw into the baffle plates when we fix the bottom end cap, so take note of the pencil mark you have just made. Starting about 45mm away from the pencil marks and 10mm up from the bottom edge of the cylinder/container, drill and place 6 x 2.5mm (4g) screws around the bottom of cylinder and through into the end cap, firmly fixing the end cap into position.

7. Before any silicon is allowed to dry firm, remove the baffle plates from their position. Wipe any excess silicon away from the end cap, plates and the baffle guides. Allow your unit to dry for 24 hours before you use your completed unit. Fill the cylinder/container with water and check that there is no leaks and that every thing looks clean an is in the correct position.

8. You may have to hammer the top of both electrode plates to fit the inside curved of the cylinder. Hammer the first 50mm of the top section of each electrode plate so that it shapes into a curve. You should not need to curve any more than 50mm. If you desire you may also bend a 90 deg x 90 deg bend near the top of electrode plates to move the electrodes closer into the centre of the container. The top of the plates should be flush with the top of the cylinder/container. Drill and fit both the electrode stainless steel plates into position. Fit the electrode plates with 2 @ 5mm x 16mm stainless steel nuts and bolts. (see figure 4&5)

9. Optionally you may drill two 10mm holes at the bottom (just above the end cap) either side of the container and place two hose fittings to allow you to drain the charge water from the container. You may also use some sort of tap arrangement. I leave that up to you. Your assembled unit should look something like the grey colour picture design of figure 9.

Figure 8

Using your Charger Unit.

Ok, if your charger container is sealed and there are no apparent leaks, then you are ready to fit the baffles; refill it with clean water and connect the power. Place the chamois between the baffles plates and slide the plates firmly into the baffle guides while also checking that the baffles have gone down firmly into the groove in the end cap.

Filling the Charger Unit

Fill your charger unit full with clean drinking water while alternating to both sides of the container at the same time. Fill the container till the water level is about 5mm below the top of the baffle plates.You will notice as you fill one side that you have slight leaking into the adjacent partition, this is quite okay. The water will not leak through under normal use, provided that you keep the water height at roughly the same water level on both sides. When first filling the container the pressure difference of the water is causing water to push through the chamois membrane, this is quite normal. This water pressure difference should be avoid where possible, as it's not desirable when you decide to empty the container of the charged water.When you empty the charger you must syphon off both sides of the container at exactly the same time. This will prevent the water pressure difference and prevent water flowing from one partition of the container into the other.

Connecting the Power:

Using a texture or marker pen scribe a (+) symbol on one of the electrodes, an a (-) negative symbol on the other electrode. Place the red lead of your battery charger onto the (+) electrode. Place the black lead onto the (-) negative electrode. You will need to identify the polarity of the water by determining which side of the container is which. This is in case you decide to do some periodic testing during the charging process, therefore you will need to identify which electrode is which to reconnect the battery charger leads for the same polarity.

The first time you use your water charger you will need to leave it connected to the power supply for about 1-3 hours; depending on the water in your area. The first thing you may notice might be the water in the positive side of the container starting to turn a dark greenie brown colour, while the water in the negative side will remain clean and clear. If your charger is working correctly you should see the above results start to happen with in about 1 hour. If you don't see something happen with in the hour then check that the battery charger leads are making contact with the stainless steel plates in the container, or that the power supply is working as it should. I have left my own water charger unit on for up to 10-12 hours at a time. You will determine through trial an error how long you should leave your water charger unit connect to the power supply. You may like to keep a log book of your experiments.

Drinking Your Charge Water:

As stated previously: when removing the charged water from your charger unit, you must drain both sides of the unit at the same time. It is advisable that you empty the unit as soon as you disconnect the power supply. This ensures the ion charged water cannot redistribute its ion charge back into either partition of the charger container. You will need two clean 4 litre containers to contain the water when emptying the unit. The unit when full should hold around 6.9 litres when filled to the top water mark. Use a texture or marker pen to identify the acid an alkaline water in both of the 4 litre storage containers. The alkaline water should be clean, clear and taste something like rain water. The acid water will be coloured a dark greenie brown and taste brackish or stark like metal in the water. You may drink the alkaline water internally for inner health, an use the acid water externally on your skin and hair for outer health. By personal preference I like to store the alkaline charge water in a glass bottle.

Companies with commercial units recommend for the first time user to only charge the water for a short period, so that your body can slowly adjust to the cleansing an detoxifying effects. As you grow accustom to the alkaline water you can leave the power connected to the water charger for longer periods for stronger effects.

END.

Figure 9