4.[Electrodes]
Cut two stainless steel strips to the
size 1.5mm x 50mm x 350 mm long. These are your positive and negative
electrodes. These are bolted inside near the top edge of the main
cylinder/container on opposite sides to each other. One electrode either
side of the baffle partition will produce acid water at the positive,
while alkaline water is produce at the negative. The baffle partition
and membrane filter will prevent the water from mixing together. These
electrodes can be powered by a standard 12 volt car battery charger. You
do not need heavy current. An ordinary house hold 240volt down to 6-12
volt handy power pack will work just the same.
NB. It has been bought
to my attention that nickel can leach from the stainless steel plates
into the water if the water electrolyte condition causes a heavy
current to pass through the plates. The experimenter may like to
replace the stainless steel electrodes with silver electrodes to
introduce colloidal silver into the water process. Silver adds
additional health benefits to the overall system. You may also add a
resistor in series with the power supply to further reduce current
passing through the stainless steal electrodes. You can buy resistors
from your local Dicksmith™ or Tandy™ electrical stores.
Resistor example :
12volt power supply
| Resistor in Ohms |
Current in mAmp |
| 100 |
120 ma |
| 1000 |
12 ma |
| 10,000 |
1.2 ma |
Drill a hole at one end in the centre of
these stainless steel plates about 15mm down from the top width edge, an
about 25 mm in from the length edge. This is the bolt hole that will fix
the electrodes to the main cylinder/container. (See
figure 4 & 5 )
5. [Bottom End Cap ]
Here comes the tricky part. The bottom
end cap is lathed out of a 20mm thick x 160mm square block of nylon or
acrylic material. The end cap will be lathed to an accurate finish of
151mm inside diameter. You may have to get this bottom end cap
manufactured at a machine shop. It should cost you very little to have
it done. This end cap will fit entirely flush into the bottom of the
cylinder/container. If you wish you may lathe a 5 mm x 2mm deep groove
in the centre of the outer edge to contain a silicon bead of glue when
fixing the cap into position. You will need to use a saw or router to
cut an 11mm x 10mm deep groove across the end cap diameter inside face.
In this groove is where the baffles will sit to seal the bottom section
of the baffle plates to prevent them from leakage.(see
figure 7) It is important to try an get this
groove cut out section as straight an as dead centre as is possible. You
may like to get this groove machined at the machine shop at the same
time that you have the diameter lathed out. It is much easier to get
this groove placed centre while it is still a square block of material.
Alternatively you may attempt to lathe the block yourself by drilling a
10mm hole in the dead centre of the square block, and place a nut and
bolt through the material. Place the bolt end in a drill machine an
lathe the151mm dia block with a sharp chisel or screw driver. Be sure to
fix the drill machine firmly in a vice or similar before you start. Be
careful of the drill speed, as the rotational speed can get very large
at the outer edge of the square block. If you attempt to lathe this
yourself then make sure you cut the corners off the block before you
start. You will have to plug the10mm drill hole with a plastic plug and
silicon once you have finished lathing. Have fun...
Do NOT fix the end cap
permanently into the cylinder/container at this stage.
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Alternative
